A Q&A with AI Proponent Juan Carlos Noguera

A Q&A with AI Proponent Juan Carlos Noguera

Spotlight articles shine a light on designers and design materials we admire. Our founder and principal designer Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman has met many wonderful designers in her time in the industry, and in our Spotlight interviews we ask them about their work, their design journey, and what inspires them. In this interview we spoke with Juan Carlos Noguera, an industrial designer and design educator who focuses on creating holistic design solutions. He holds a masters in industrial design from the Rhode Island School of Design and a bachelor’s in industrial design from Universidad Rafael Landivar in Guatemala city. He is well known for being the product design director at Voxel8, where he pioneered the development of the first 3D electronics printer, and he is a professor of industrial design at the Rochester Institute of Technology, where he brings AI into the classroom. We asked him about how AI is changing design education, how to incorporate AI into the design process, and how he teaches students to use AI effectively and responsibly.

Juan Carlos Noguera
Photo courtesy of Juan Carlos Noguera.

Q: Design has been revolutionized in the last decade by the emergence of sophisticated digital tools, the latest of which include powerful AI generators that we have barely begun to regulate. How have you seen design education changing in light of these developments?

A: I think the first knee-jerk reaction has been lots of fear from people, from faculty, especially because every time you read about AI and education in the same sentence, you hear about cheating and plagiarism and all of the very valid gray areas of AI. It’s a valid fear that people have. I think there are still a lot of things that need to be resolved regarding the regulation of intellectual property. These are ongoing conversations that I think we should definitely keep in mind. I’m a person who’s very excited about using AI in my classes. My personal perspective is that, if we are transparent about teaching incorporating AI into the projects that we teach, if we show students what AI can do really well, what the shortcomings of using AI in your process are, how your process can suffer from using AI — I think students will organically use it appropriately, because they want to reap the greatest benefit. If we give way to the hand wringing and fear and start prohibiting it in our classes, it starts becoming a problem. 

I’ve had a chance to do things like faculty workshops here at RIT, where I try to start to dispel some of the fear around it. These systems are not black magic. There are mathematical models: they do these certain things really well, and they don’t do these other things very well. I start getting people to jump on board and feel a little bit more excited. So, I have seen a big sea change toward positivity from some people, but there are still a lot of fears. I think that’s the biggest battle right now. But let’s get people to embrace it because, if we don’t, students will use it anyway, and they’re not going to see the downsides if we don’t point them out.

Q: The role of AI tools, especially image generators, is not yet standardized in the industry. How do you see AI being incorporated into design education, and how do you see it being incorporated into the design process more broadly?

A:  It’s always hard to visualize the future. I’m trying to think what may happen when the novelty wears off, at which point do we start seeing the net benefit of these tools existing? So, for education it means a few things. One is curricular change. We start rethinking what types of assignments get put into courses. Mechanical tasks that we used to ask students to do and that can easily be replaced by AI will get replaced by AI, whether you want it or not. So how do you get that learning out of more project-based work where students engage more in critical thinking. I think it’s a good thing, it also forces us as faculty to rethink things that were easy before. It’s going to force us to make some adjustments. Having faculty become experts in the area is hard, not everybody uses technology at that level. Some faculty are more reticent to start using it or to accept that it could be a tool.

Educational institutions are ships that are hard to steer because they’ve been going in one direction for a long time, and some people don’t want things to change. We’re a bit of a tribe as designers. You have to go through a right of passage of doing this one thing. What if that thing is no longer part of the process? We were just having a discussion at RIT.  We’ve been using this AI tool called Vizcom a lot in class, and it’s basically jumping over the entire need for my students to get good at marker renderings. Now, if they have a great line drawing of their idea they pump it through Vizcom and get a good enough representation of the thing that is as good as their marker rendering would have been. So why would you learn that manual skill? There are a lot of moving parts to this, which is why I understand the frustration.

On the other hand, in industry, once that novelty wears off you’re going to start seeing these AI tools being built into things you already use. It’s going to make the tools you’re used to smarter. When you go into your CAD program, AI tools are going to be there to help you with tasks that, right now, you might consider tedious. I think Adobe in particular is really a great job at incorporating AI into their offerings. It’s naturally built into Photoshop and Illustrator, and they’re going to slowly expand on this. They’re not taking these tools and saying, Here’s AI added on top of them. They’re saying, Hey, here’s the fill tool you’ve been using for a while, we’ve made it smarter. I think that approach is very future-proof in particular. They’re calling it generative. It’s just an offshoot of their previous version. They’re doing a good job at softening that landing for people, saying, Now Photoshop does one more thing. As opposed to the crash people have when they open Chat GPT and get this ominous feeling of not knowing what is chatting back. People have a hard time getting over that. That feeling isn’t there with Adobe products. I think we will see more of that and less of the inaccessible version.

Q: It can be challenging to use AI tools efficiently and effectively. At what point(s) in your design process do you find AI tools most valuable?

A: I have found that at least some of the generative tools I’ve been using so far in my practice, and also in class with my students, are really great during the ideation phase in a number of ways. Image generation software like Midjourney and Dall-E have been great at helping teams communicate. I had a chance to do a project with artisans from my home country, Guatemala. They do bronze castings. They typically work with a designer, and the designer is up here and they’re down here, just making the thing. It feels like a very top-down relationship. We recently jumped on a Zoom call and used Dall-E to communicate visual ideas. We went back and forth and just used that as a communication tool. It really helped level the conversation field. Dall-E is almost like an automated journey mapping or storyboarding tool, so it’s great for teams. I also think image generators have great potential when a designer is just hunkered down ideating. It’s an endless firehose of stuff. And that could be good or bad, depending. But let’s say you’re tasked with designing a plywood chair, right? It’s almost like having the key to the plywood chair museum. You can ask for plywood chairs all day and you will get all these different things that are plywood chairs. Some of them will be good, some of them will be garbage. But you’ll have an endless stream of images to look at and get inspired by, which can help you work through a block. It’s like the stimulation of going to a museum. It’s more targeted, because you get to input what you want, but the mechanism is the same. So, I think it’s going to make us more efficient.

I’ve pretty much absorbed it into my workflow. It really helps me visualize specific situations as well. It’s even helped me visualize situations for my client. I’m working right now on an underwater robot model for a client. I had the CAD model for the bot and and my own rendering, and I fed it to Midjourney and said, I want this thing to be underwater on the ship hull. And Midjourney did a beautiful job of putting my object underwater and on the ship hull. That’s the kind of thing that would be very time consuming to do. All of that sort of mechanical work is not going to be client facing anyway. It’s automated now, so it’s taking away some of the more painful parts of what I do, which is what automation should do, right? I think people are worried because this is now automation for the mind, and that’s a strange concept.

Q: How do you guide students to incorporate AI into their process ethically and in a way that preserves the integrity of their ideas? What are some of the common pitfalls in AI use that you see as a design educator?

A: I think it’s important to have students use it and also kind of crash and fail with it. I like to start with very open questions and assignments when we work with AI, so that they can see that the direct output from the system is not something they can use.

First of all, they have to understand how it works. So we go ahead and talk about how a diffusion system for image generation works, how it’s been trained. The data set is owned by everyone in the world. And what you’re getting is basically reprocessed data that’s combined based on your text input, but the information is coming from unknown sources. All of these different software companies are very opaque about how their software works. This means that any output that you get from the AI, you can consider that the same way you consider the results of a Google image search. You see the results. You might find something inspiring. It’s not something you want to use directly. That’s the first thing. It’s a great way to remix things in unexpected ways and find unexpected and inspiration. But they have to remember: this is just an echo chamber of everything that’s out there in the world. If you actually want to generate something new, you can’t use that output, because that’s not how the system works. You won’t get something new, it’s just giving you information from its data set. I’ve tried to get students to use it as a way to generate rich mood boards and inspiration boards as opposed to trying to get form from it.

Prompt engineering is on the horizon of being an actual profession. Out of all of these systems I like to have students play with Chat GPT. It’s a great way to train your thought process. They need to learn how to ask things from AI systems. You can give it a lot of context and get really great results back. We did this experiment in class where I said, Okay, I’m going to write a letter or recommendation for one of you, which is a task that I do as a teacher all the time. And at first I just asked Chat GPT directly, I want a letter of recommendation for this student. The student is an industrial design student. It gave me something professional and polite, a very generic letter of recommendation that sounded like a template, it sounded robotic. It was bad, it was not something usable. On the other hand, we repeated the exercise. We started describing my relationship to one student in the class. I said, Hey, Chat GPT, my name is Juan. I’m an industrial design professor. I come from Guatemala. I’ve worked on this and that before, these are my interests. You describe them in a couple sentences. And I said, I met the student last semester. They took my drawing class. They did this. The prompt was probably as long as the letter that I needed to write but I wasn’t trying to word it well. I had grammatical errors. I was being very casual about just telling it a lot of information. The language model is great at processing that. And then after that I just said, Knowing all that, please write a letter of recommendation for this person. And that letter was amazing. It was great. I would not guess it was written by AI. I seemed connected, like I really knew the student wanted to speak to the things they did. When you do an exercise like that, the students really see the power of the right prompt. They see, okay, I need to get context, I need to think carefully about keywords and information and try to frame my thoughts. After that, they start using the tool in more creative ways.

I use the tools in class as much as possible to try to take away the shame element of using AI. I say, Use it as much as you want. You just need to tell me when you use it. You need to cite it almost as if you’re citing a source for an image or anything else you’re putting in your paper. I want to know which steps used it, and how that helped inform your design decisions. Once we get that established, they feel more at home using it. They know that they’re not cheating, it’s not plagiarism. They’re using it, they’re being transparent about what they got from it, what they couldn’t get from it, and what failed. 

Q: What reaction are you seeing from the students? I know there can be costs to using these tools.

A: Yeah, there’s grumbling on the cost, but the same way that we’ve been grumbling about the cost of software forever. The same way I grumbled about paying $100 a year for my Keyshot subscription. Or when I finally graduated from school and realized that my professional license for SolidWorks was $5,000. Students here at RIT don’t get free Adobe licenses, they have to have their own. And that’s always a problem. So, that really hasn’t changed. 

One thing I do notice that is a source of frustration is going back to curriculum and course development. They now start seeing, Okay, here’s this tool, and it does the thing that you’re teaching me how to do by hand. So why are you teaching me this again? It feels redundant to them. I think that has been the most painful part of it for my students, just trying to figure out: What is the skill set of a designer in the end? What’s desirable when I go out into the world? Should I have AI skills? I might not be getting them from the school. Do I have to get them on my own? Should they be in my CV? All these things are a source of frustration.

Q: How do you see the relationship between AI and design education developing in the near future?

A: That’s a great question that I don’t have a very solid answer for. Last semester we had about five or six different faculty forums about what’s going to happen with AI and education. Universities are wrestling with how to tackle it and these tools are popping up that are really unexpected, like Vizcom. It basically showed up a couple of weeks before we started the semester and it really made us think, Should we try to retool the entire design drawing class we’re teaching this semester? Because they’re going to use this and wonder why they need to learn how to work with Copic markers. Those are valid questions, because… is this a skill that is no longer relevant?

We need to ask those hard questions. That’s definitely on the horizon because I think this is significant enough that we’re going to need to rethink many parts of our curriculum and how we do things in education. We can’t treat it like a piece of software. We have to treat it as the sea change that it is. It’s very fast-paced, and we don’t know what other tools will pop up. They’re going to replace everyday tasks. This has already started to happen. When I went to school, I did three semesters of technical drawing. Giant board with a parallel ruler. That now feels like it was a waste of time, but that was the industry standard when I went  to school. That change happened gradually, but this is happening fast, and I think that’s the big difference. 

The school-wide policy in most schools that I’ve seen has been very nebulous. It’s mostly been about trying to give faculty a little bit of power over how to use AI in their class. The syllabi that we use now have language that says that the faculty get to say when AI is appropriate or not, or that it’s not to be used unless the faculty instructs the students to use it. This leaves the door open for usage while still trying to be cautious. institutions are trying to use caution, which is natural, right? But there should be a sense of urgency. And that really depends on who you ask. 

I would say generally that industrial designers are overall super excited. Very happy. They can see lots of applications, things that can help us. If you’re a graphic designer, you’re less excited. If you’re Illustrator, you’re definitely not very excited about this at all. A concept artist? You don’t want this at all. It really depends on your specific area of interest and also your industry. There are a few industries that might be more directly affected by this existing. If you work in an industry with a very specialized knowledge base, soft goods for example, I would be less worried. If you work in another area, maybe traditional consumer goods, plastics, it’s hard to tell.

I’m very optimistic and see great benefits using AI in my work. It frees me up for what I consider the more critical parts of designing, like trying to be user-centric, trying to be sustainable in my decisions. It’s reducing the workload of things I don’t like to do, which is what automation should do. Not everyone is that optimistic, but I see good historical precedents for this. When photography was invented, everybody thought, This is going to destroy painting. Most painters were tradespeople, because painting was a way to do naturalistic documentation. But the rise of photography spurred painting as an art form, and all these different currents, like impressionism and cubism. It was a documentation tool that was taken over by this other, more automated thing: photography.

When they invented the sewing machine, they thought, It’s going to replace the people that create clothes. And there were strikes and all this resistance. It took 30 years for it to catch on. And people realize, no, the sewing machine just makes people that make clothes more efficient. It drives up quality, it ends up being a good thing. But there’s a lot of fear. 

When we started having records for music, musicians unions got the radio station consortium of New York to play records one time and then destroy them. Because before that, music was live, right? So you have to pay the band for every play. Records took that away. So buying one record for each play was the way that they saw out of it. There’s always a clash but, in the end, all of these technologies helped make things progress. I think that’s what’s going to happen here.

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The Future of Industrial Design Education

This article, written by Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman, was published in the Fall 2023 Issue of Innovation Magazine.

As technology continues to blur the lines between physical and digital products, design educators must navigate an increasingly complex landscape to determine what a design education should look like. In this Insight article we explore the challenges and opportunities facing industrial design education today. We outline the key skills that will be needed by the next generation of designers in this evolving landscape.

The Merge

The merge of physical and digital products represents a significant shift in the field of industrial design. Digital technologies and experiences are increasingly integrated into physical products, blurring the boundaries between the physical and virtual realms. Designers now need to possess a comprehensive understanding of both physical and digital design principles, as well as the ability to seamlessly integrate the two. Designers who embrace the merging of the physical and the digital can create innovative and immersive experiences that enhance user interactions and redefine the possibilities of product design.

This blurring has important implications for design education, yielding both challenges as well as opportunities. It is a real challenge to equip students with the necessary skills and knowledge to navigate a shifting landscape. Traditional design education must increasingly incorporate digital tools, technologies, and methodologies. At the same time, new avenues for creativity and exploration are everywhere. By understanding the implications of this merge and embracing interdisciplinary approaches, industrial design education can play a role in shaping the future of design, ensuring that designers are well-prepared to create innovative and meaningful products that integrate the physical and digital realms.

Photo: Scott Graham

The Changing Landscape of Industrial Design

The landscape of industrial design education is undergoing a significant transformation as technology continues to advance and shape the field. Traditionally, industrial design focused on physical products, such as furniture, appliances, and consumer goods. However, there has been a noticeable shift towards digital and interactive experiences in the past few decades, a shift that is accelerating every year. This shift is driven by the increasing integration of technology into everyday objects, as well as the rising demand for user-centered and immersive design solutions. Gradually, industrial design programs are adapting their curricula to equip students with the necessary skills and knowledge to navigate this new territory.

Advancements in digital tools, prototyping techniques, and manufacturing technologies have revolutionized the way designers approach their work. New 3D technologies have opened up new possibilities for rapid prototyping, iteration, and visualization. Technologies like the Internet of Things (IoT) and artificial intelligence (AI) have created opportunities for designing connected and intelligent products. Designers are expected to be proficient in these technologies and leverage them to create innovative, user-friendly, and sustainable solutions.

The evolving landscape of industrial design education emphasizes the need for interdisciplinary skills and knowledge among design students. Designers are no longer solely focused on aesthetics and form; they must also understand the technological, sociocultural, and economic contexts in which their designs will exist. Collaborating with engineers, programmers, psychologists, and other experts is becoming increasingly common to address complex design challenges. In response, design education is incorporating interdisciplinary approaches, encouraging students to explore diverse fields and develop a holistic understanding of the design process. This interdisciplinary mindset equips designers with the ability to think critically, solve problems creatively, and collaborate effectively in multidisciplinary teams, reflecting the reality of the modern design industry.

Challenges in industrial design education

Industrial design education faces several challenges in adapting to the changing landscape. One is striking the right balance between technical skills and creativity in design education. While technical skills are necessary for using advanced tools and software, creativity remains at the heart of design. It is essential for design programs to foster an environment that encourages both technical proficiency and creative thinking, ensuring that students develop a well-rounded skill set that allows them to excel in the digital as well as the physical aspects of design.

Another challenge is addressing the evolving role of designers in a digital world. With the increasing integration of technology, designers are no longer limited to creating physical products; they are also involved in crafting digital experiences and services. Design education needs to prepare students for this expanded role by equipping them with skills in user interface (UI) and user experience (UX) design, interaction design, and digital prototyping. By embracing the digital aspects of design, students can adapt to the changing demands of the industry and contribute to the creation of meaningful and engaging experiences.

Photo: Alvaro Reyes

The field of industrial design has a rich history and established traditions, making it challenging for some institutions to embrace new technologies and design approaches. In order to stay relevant and prepare students for the future, design programs will need to be open to innovation and adapt their curricula to reflect the evolving needs of the industry. This may involve introducing new courses, incorporating emerging technologies into projects, and fostering a culture of continuous learning and experimentation.

Design education must also align with the expectations and requirements of the design industry, ensuring that graduates are equipped with the skills and knowledge that employers seek. Establishing strong connections with industry professionals, offering internships and collaborative projects, and involving industry experts in curriculum development can help bridge this gap. By fostering a close relationship between academia and industry, design programs can better prepare students for real-world challenges and increase their employability upon graduation.

Opportunities in Industrial Design Education

While there are many challenges, there are also many opportunities. Embracing digital tools and software in the design process opens up new possibilities for creativity and efficiency. Designers can leverage software for 3D modeling, simulation, virtual reality (VR), and augmented reality (AR) to visualize and iterate their ideas before moving to physical prototyping. By incorporating these digital tools into the curriculum, design programs can empower students to explore new design possibilities and streamline their workflow.

Another opportunity is incorporating human-centered design principles in digital experiences. As technology becomes more integrated into our daily lives, designers will need to prioritize the user experience and consider the human aspects of their designs. By teaching students about user research, usability testing, and empathy-driven design, design programs can ensure that the next generation of designers develops a deep understanding of human needs and can create digital experiences that are intuitive, inclusive, and meaningful.

Leveraging emerging technologies for innovative design solutions presents still more opportunities. Industrial design education can explore the integration of technologies such as Internet of Things (IoT), artificial intelligence (AI), robotics, and wearable devices into design projects. By encouraging students to experiment with these technologies and explore their potential applications in various domains, design programs can foster innovation and prepare students to create designs that push boundaries and address future challenges.

Encouraging collaborative and cross-disciplinary projects is another valuable opportunity for industrial design education. The merging of physical and digital products requires designers to work closely with professionals from diverse fields such as software development, engineering, psychology, and business. By promoting collaborative projects that bring together students from different disciplines, design programs can nurture a multidisciplinary mindset and foster teamwork and communication skills. Such projects also reflect the real-world nature of design work, where collaboration and cross-disciplinary approaches are increasingly necessary for successful outcomes.

Looking to the Future

As industrial design education looks towards the future, it is essential to consider the impact of emerging technologies. Design programs need to stay abreast of the latest advancements and integrate them into their curricula to equip students with the skills and knowledge necessary to harness the potential of these technologies. Students need to understand not only the utility but the ethical implications of these technologies. Designers must consider the ethical and social consequences of their creations, ensuring that technology is used responsibly and with consideration for human values and well-being.

As digital products become more prevalent, it is essential for industrial design education to emphasize the importance of designing with sustainability in mind. Students should be encouraged to adopt sustainable design principles, including material selection, lifecycle assessment, and designing for circularity. Ethical issues like privacy, data security, and inclusivity, need to be integrated into the design process. Design programs can be a key player in instilling these values.

Conclusion

The merging of physical and digital products presents both challenges and opportunities in industrial design education. The challenges lie in balancing technical skills and creativity, addressing the evolving role of designers in a digital world, overcoming resistance to change, and bridging the gap between academia and industry needs. However, these challenges can be turned into opportunities by embracing digital tools and software, incorporating human-centered design principles, leveraging emerging technologies, and encouraging collaborative and cross-disciplinary projects.

Adaptability and continuous learning are key attributes for designers in this evolving landscape. As technology continues to advance and new design paradigms emerge, designers must be willing to adapt their skills and embrace new tools and methodologies. Designers need to be open to collaborating with professionals from different disciplines, which can foster creativity and lead to innovative solutions that bridge the gap between physical and digital realms.

In preparing the next generation of designers, it is important to provide them with a solid foundation in both traditional and digital design principles. By nurturing their technical skills, creativity, and interdisciplinary thinking, design education can empower students to become versatile and forward-thinking professionals. Additionally, design programs should foster a culture of experimentation, encourage critical thinking, and emphasize the ethical and sustainable considerations inherent in the digital age. By equipping designers with the necessary knowledge, skills, and mindset, we can shape a future where the merge of physical and digital products is seamlessly integrated, leading to innovative and meaningful experiences for users.

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A Q&A with Interaction Designer Elham Morshedzadeh

A Q&A with Interaction Designer Elham Morshedzadeh

Spotlight articles shine a light on designers and design materials we admire. Our founder and principal designer Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman has met many wonderful designers in her time in the industry, and in our Spotlight interviews we ask them about their work, their design journey, and what inspires them. In this interview we spoke with Elham Morshedzadeh, an industrial designer, usability researcher, and design educator with a focus on healthcare and community-centered design. She has a master’s in industrial and product design and a PhD in user-product interaction design. She is currently teaching at the University of Houston and works on a number of transdisciplinary healthcare-related research and design projects. We asked her about her user-product interaction, her experiences in design higher education, and the approach to design education in different countries.

Photo courtesy of Elham Morshedzadeh.

“I believe that we can’t design the experience. We design the interaction, and the experience is unique to every single person.”

Q: What motivated you to pursue a PhD in User-Product Interaction design? 

A: There were different reasons. I was into art and I was into design, but I was also always a good researcher. I like to get in-depth with things, and that’s why I started my master’s in the first place. I would say that my master’s was not a traditional master’s in design. Many people basically do more product design in their master’s program. For me it was more about looking into different types of interactions; between humans and products and between humans and systems. When I was pursuing my master’s, the meaning of interactive design implied digital products, or products that have some digital components in them. I always wanted to look into the true meaning of interaction, interacting with this device or object, this physical thing. I like the physical, functional, and cognitive aspect, so it started there. I did deep research into the overall understanding of how interaction creates the experience. I believe that we can’t design the experience. We design the interaction, and the experience is unique to every single person. It’s literally that person’s experience, and no matter how much you try, people’s experience will be different and unique to themselves.

There were a couple of reasons for getting the PhD. One was that I was fascinated in how we can combine our thoughts and qualitative aspects of design into something that is more reliable, something that can facilitate stronger conversations in interdisciplinary work that we do with the engineers. They don’t communicate like us. How can we describe our qualitative data in a more reliable way such that we can gain the respect from our colleagues or from our collaborators when we are working on a design? I thought that would be more than just a project to do on my own, and I really wanted to do it in a more academic way because it was part of my understanding that that structure can provide me a good foundation for achieving my goal.

I also really wanted to teach. I really love teaching, so that was also aligned with what I was doing. I worked in industry as well before getting my PhD, before even getting my master’s. The combination of my experience working with big groups of people, where I was the only designer, and trying to convince those people that what I’m saying, it might not have the same data or numbers that you’re looking for, but it makes sense. That was an experience that pushed me towards trying to find better language to communicate in interdisciplinary work. In my opinion, interaction applies to any type of design, and that’s why I took a deep dive into interaction evaluation.

Q: How did the different levels of design degrees you experienced differ from one another?

A:  It was not funny, but I will say it was funny that in the last conference I attended there was this guy sitting beside me. When we introduced ourselves he saw my business card and he said, Ohh, PhD. Since when did we need a PhD in design? He was basically saying, What do you know? But I think he was being privileged, he was always given this permission to speak his thoughts aloud, no matter what they are. I wanted to tell you that it’s not the only way to pursue higher education in design, but it’s one of the ways. So I’m not saying that it is for every single person, but it has its own value. 

I have a little bit of a skills issue with the master’s in industrial design curriculum. To me, a master’s in industrial design, it’s just another studio. In many programs, it’s another studio project with a little bit of deeper aspects in the design of a product. I’m actually looking at higher education in design as looking into different philosophies and different methodologies, and incorporating design with other disciplines. That’s why, for example, in my PhD I looked into quantifying my data. I looked into factor analysis, basically looking into how to use the computer to quantify my qualitative data. I was looking into how the impact of one interaction can impact another, things that as a designer I might not know, but a machine can tell me.

I see higher education as an infrastructure and a foundation to strengthen designers and give them the seat at table for designing a strategy, designing vision, designing a pathway for any idea or company, rather than just sitting behind a desk and sketching. That’s my idea of higher education in design because, to be honest, they are partly right. Many of the things being taught in traditional education in industrial design are skills. They are hard skills like sketching classes, software classes. I always tell my students that if you just want to be good in Rhino, you can take a module. You really don’t have to come to school. What we are trying to train them is more about those soft skills, about better communication. Understanding how their decision or their design is impacting other things around in that environment. Working together and even creating the respect that the designer needs between themselves and other people in the discipline. Good storytelling. Storytelling is not just about good drawings, good illustrations. Yes, you need good technique to tell your story, but it’s not all about the illustration. It’s about knowing: where is the peak of your story? Where are you at the end? How do you connect everything that you said into a conclusion that reminds your user about all the challenges that you explained to them at the beginning?

So these are the soft skills that it might not be possible to do in a four week module. It might not be possible to do it in six weeks. It’s something that we constantly talk about with our students. I didn’t know it at the time, but I was basically getting myself ready to do more interdisciplinary work. Nobody was even talking about interdisciplinary work then. Fifteen years ago I was the only designer in a team of 20 different engineers and entrepreneurs, and they were all wearing suits. The moment they saw me, they said, Who is this kid? But by the end of that project, they were constantly calling me to say, What do you think we should do with this? What do you think the solution is for this? I gained their respect and changed their opinions about what designers do, and that has been my agenda since that moment. I always wanted to teach and I always wanted to learn, so being in an academic environment always made me happy. They say to the job that you don’t work one day in your life. I’m not saying 100%, but it’s summer and I’m in my office so…


Q: You did your bachelor’s and master’s degrees in Iran and now work and teach in the U.S. What differences have you experienced in the attitude toward design education across different countries and institutions?

A: There is a truth that we can’t deny: most programs around the world are influenced by the traditional, Bauhaus, European design definition. In my experience in Iran, we were definitely influenced by that. It really depended on which college the program was located in; if the program was located in an art and design college, it was more artistic. It was more towards Italian design, fun, emotional design playing with form and function. And then if it was located in an engineering college, it was more focused on the engineering aspect. There were even two different degrees, a BA and a BS. At the same time, my college was something in between. The difference was that we were taught plenty of basic courses in engineering, like mathematics, physics, mechanics, and physical electronics. That was a good practice to have in order to be able to work with other disciplines. That’s something I feel we are lacking in programs in the U.S. We expect our students to learn about mechanics themselves. Unless there is a course or unless there is a project designed specifically for them, they don’t get an official education in any of these disciplines, and that causes the quality of prototypes to decline in the depth. 

I told you, I’ve worked with engineers. It’s not just the it’s not just the facade or how it works or something like that. You really have to understand how to pack those devices in that space. Production limitations are a very, very important thing in the evolution of a concept into a product that can be production-ready. I would say, at least in a couple of the programs that I experienced in the United States, they lack that unless there is a good professor, you know? I don’t mean to say that we need to teach everything, but I would say it is good to have those foundations.

In Japan, one thing that was interesting to me was the attention to their culture. You could see the integration of their own culture in the design of their studios and in the design of the projects they teach their students. They also idealized western design history, but they were fully aware of their own potential, their own value. So they empower their own culture and values but, at the same time, it can isolate them. They can be more focused on: what is a good design for this company, for this environment, for this community in Japan? 

Another thing that I wish I could see change in American programs is the approach to the senior project. I think it’s very rushed, allowing just one semester. The students aren’t able to complete a full design process. In a best case scenario, maybe some of them will test their first prototype. In both Chiba University and in my own country, we would dedicate at least one year and sometimes more to accommodate working with a manufacturer.

Q: How does your experience teaching in design influence your design practice?

There are two different types of impact. One is design related, and one is personality or teaching related. On the personality side, I would say it makes me more patient toward my students. It makes me even more open minded towards different approaches. I’m really happy that I work in design outside of my teaching because it keeps me more human towards my students, rather than just being their teacher. From the teaching point of view, it keeps me updated. It really pushes me to keep track of what needs to be taught, which is also the challenge for design education in my opinion. This is a never ending question.

Overall, what I am teaching right now is not that similar to traditional design education. I focus very little on the end product. I focused a lot on the process, on decision-making, on prioritization. I ask myself, What is the demand in the industry? My work is still very narrow in one area, and while teaching a group of 20 students, I experience a very wide area. That itself adds to the challenge of teaching industrial design or design students, because you have to be able to have some knowledge about everything, which is ridiculous… but that’s also this exciting part, in my opinion.

We talk constantly to the students about what’s happening in the world right now. How is it going to impact our job? How is it going to impact their future as a designer? And I’m being honest with my students, it’s not that I know everything. Especially when they are in their senior project, I tell them, You are supposed to have even more knowledge than me about this topic by the end of this project. Going back to the difference between the bachelor’s and the master’s, the thing is that if you go back to the traditional definition of a master’s degree, you really need to have an agenda of research and a body of research.

If you’re just doing another product design as your master’s without a good body of research behind it, then why are you doing it? The degree means that you are capable of starting, running, and accomplishing a whole research process, no matter what the end product might be.

Q: What are you working on that’s interesting to you at the moment?

A: There are actually two things. One is that I’m starting a new initiative for women’s healthcare, making it better and more accessible. We’re working with new technologies like eye tracking to understand what’s going on in a woman’s head when they go to the exam room and they are waiting to hear for example if the lump in their breast is a cancer or not. We have so much capability right now to make those experiences less traumatic. It’s not an easy route convincing people to work with you. Even the communities and the public, and it’s very, very hard. That’s another mission that I have, I want to rely on communities rather than isolate or alienate them.

The second thing is that I want to work on small, detailed add-on designs that make somebody’s life a little bit better. For example, a better bike handle for people with arthritis. That’s something I’m really excited about. A third thing: I also do painting. I used to be a painter. I was doing it professionally and then in the last ten years I couldn’t because of life getting busy, moving to a new country, getting a job, and all these crazy things. I decided that I want to go back to it and I’m already working on my fifth painting. I hope to be able to do an exhibition by the end of this year. My true passion is actually drawing and painting. And it’s so funny, even though I haven’t painted in the last ten years, my brush strokes have changed. I think they are more confident because I am a more confident person. Internally I feel more comfortable with who I am. The way that I put the brush on the canvas; I’m not afraid to be who I am. I think that a lot of that is because I’m a researcher. Because I’m always looking, I’m not doing something similar every single day. I have to come up with new proposals, new ideas to do research. And I think this is a skill that I learned in higher education; to think in different directions and connect things that might not seem connected at all.

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A Q&A with Sustainability Consultant and Educator Frank Millero

A Q&A with Sustainability Consultant and Educator Frank Millero

Spotlight articles shine a light on designers and design materials we admire. Our founder and principal designer Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman has met many wonderful designers in her time in the industry, and in our Spotlight interviews we ask them about their work, their design journey, and what inspires them. In this interview we spoke with Frank Millero, a design and sustainability consultant as well as design educator. He has been helping companies with sustainable initiatives for over twelve years and he has taught a range of design courses at Pratt Institute for nearly twenty.

Frank Millero is on the Board of Directors for SERVV, a nonprofit dedicated to fair and ethical trade, where he works to empower small-scale global artisans and farmers. Trained as an industrial designer at Pratt Institute, he brings his passion for sustainability and his boundless curiosity to all of his projects. We asked Frank about prototyping and designing for sustainability, his history as a design educator, and the future of sustainable design.

Photo courtesy of Frank Millero.

Everything goes back to that word, ‘value’. What do we value? And how do we use all of these tools to support our values? “

Q: What are you working on that’s interesting to you at the moment?

A: For me teaching is endlessly interesting. I got to teach a design research class last fall and that was a fun opportunity to think about what my research process is in the work that I do. In terms of design work, recently I got to work with a nonprofit called Mayan Hands. They work with weavers in Guatemala to produce textiles. What I really enjoyed about it was that I got to learn what the techniques were and how they were done. I wanted to create something that was really culturally sensitive because they were using a traditional technique, but I didn’t want the project to be necessarily traditional. How do you find that compromise between creating something new but also honoring the tradition?

The good thing was that the weavers were really excited to try new things, so I worked on developing color palettes and designs based on the biogeography of Guatemala. That was a point of departure that made a connection to the land and to the people. It was a fun project in many ways. I got to learn about their textiles, but also about Guatemala.

Q: Could you tell us about one of your favorite projects and share why it is important to you?

A: In Cambodia I worked with the nonprofit SERVV to come up with designs and design ideas. I was there for a month and I got to see how they make things. They were using large, traditional wood looms and they did cut-and-sew. The program was set up to help support women, especially women in farming communities. Part of the year they didn’t have any income from farming and so this provided them with another source of income.

One of the things that we did that was a little bit of a departure from the traditional techniques was creating something that was quick and easy to make. They had some screen printing capacity, so I worked with the director to find local canvas from the market and we used the screen printing techniques that they knew to create tote bags. It was a simple project but it was great because it was a teaching tool for people who were learning to cut and sew simple constructions. It was also really affordable to make and they could make a lot, so it was profitable.

I think the most interesting thing about that project was connecting directly to the people who were making the product and learning about their culture, learning about the way that they were producing things. I knew  a lot about the environmental dimension of sustainability but this gave me an opportunity to think about the social dimension of sustainability and to realize how important that was.

Q: What is sustainable design?

A: Sustainable design is a fascinating challenge of creating high value products and services that consider environmental, social, and economic factors throughout the life cycle. I use that phrase ‘high value’. How you define value is important because there are always so many trade-offs when you’re thinking about what impacts there are, what you have to live with, and what you can work towards. It depends on so many different factors. 

One of the things I realized when thinking about that word value is that the designers can’t really decide this on their own. It has to be something that’s built into the design brief at the beginning, so that everyone who’s working on the project understands what the values are. Having that discussion early is important. When you get to a point where things conflict and you have to have trade-offs, how do you make those decisions?

Q: How can we design with sustainability in mind?

A: That part is fairly straightforward to me. I think it’s about education and awareness first. Like any aspect of our design process, the more we understand it, the better we can achieve what we’re looking for. Education is also about asking a lot of questions. 

When I go to a factory, I try to ask as many questions as I can to find out what they are doing and what they are hoping to improve. What are the best practices in their industry? Certifications are helpful because they help you understand what some of the best practices are, but not all partners will be certified or have the money to be certified. So it’s really important to ask them directly about their practices, and that goes for social practices, too.

Take some of the textile vendors I worked with early on in my career; I would ask them if they had organic cotton and some of them had no idea what that even meant. So you educate them and explain what it means and why it’s important. We would have them create two samples or at least cost out conventional cotton and organic cotton. It was always a bit of a battle with the merchants to say, it’s 20 cents more but this is really worth it. Sometimes it took creating a whole story around it to get people to understand the value and importance of it. 

Some people just graduating and entering a job might feel like they don’t have a lot of say in the decision making, but they do have an opportunity to communicate and propose ideas. They can find somebody who’s a mentor within the organization, maybe higher up, who can be an advocate for their ideas. It’s important that you have people at different levels in an organization who are committed to sustainability.

It’s also important to realize that everyone and every organization is going to be at different stages of incorporating these ideas. Wherever you’re at, it’s you need to set goals, figure out how you’re going to measure them, and hold yourself accountable. The more specific they are the better, because then you can measure them in some way, at least qualitatively. But hopefully quantitatively, too. 

Q: Could you share some products that you think are good examples of sustainable design?

A:  I worked with an organization called Get Paper in Nepal. The products were high quality and they had parts of their business that helped support the other parts. One part was handmade paper and the other part was more conventional paper-making. They produced a lot of packaging.

They got off-cuts from a local T-shirt factory and used that cotton as raw material for their handmade paper. They incorporated artisans in the governance of the organization, and that is a really unusual way to govern your organization. We think of most organizations as top-down, but more and more there are opportunities for people to think about cooperative organizations and new kinds of economic models. I thought this one was great because the artisans were on the decision-making panel. It wasn’t just outsiders coming in and designing things, the product was also coming from the artisans themselves. 

They had this cool community program where they would count how much paper they used per year, translate that into trees, go to a local area of degraded land and everyone in the community—the school would be closed for the day, the factory would be closed for the day—would go plant trees. 

Over time this helped to increase the water table because without the trees there was a lot of erosion. The community really saw the value in the tree planting because they immediately saw the effect. There are a lot of tree planting programs in the world and I think that they’re great in general, but when it’s directly connected to the community I think it’s even more powerful. It really shows that connection. 

Another example: Bill McKibben has an organization called Third Act. This is an organization to activate people who are over 60 to support sustainability projects. His idea was that we have this large population, some of them are starting to retire but they have all of this wisdom and experience. They were also passionate in the 60’s and 70’s about environmental and social causes. He was tapping into that history and also their skills. The idea was that everyone should be involved in this kind of activism. What’s amazing is that they vote, so they have a lot of influence in terms of policy.

Q: When did sustainability become a focus for you as a designer and what inspired that specialization?

A: My background was in biology, and I spent 10 years working as a staff biologist and exhibit developer at the Exploratorium Museum in San Francisco. This was a very important starting point for my career. I feel like I was practicing sustainability in some ways there and I didn’t even know it. The mantra of the museum is, “Here is being created a community museum, dedicated to awareness.”

While I was there I got more and more interested in design. I took design classes at night through UC Berkeley: furniture classes, different kinds of design classes, and also art classes. Victor Papanek’s Design for the Real World was really influential for me. There were a few books I read at the time that got me interested in sustainable design, one was The Ecology of Commerce by Paul Hawken, and another was Natural Capitalism by Paul Hawken and Hunter and Amory Lovins. Another really influential book was Biomimicry by Janine Benyus.

This was all in the late 90’s. And so I thought, Well, you know, I have a biology background. There are all of these interesting opportunities to think about connections, and that’s what led me to Pratt for my graduate program. While I was there, I was interested in looking at the intersection of science and design. I wasn’t focused so much on sustainability but it was an underlying current. Later I was invited to teach a junior studio about sustainable design at Pratt. It was challenging because they told me just a couple of weeks before the class started, and this was one of my first times teaching. It was an early prototype. I got interested in this idea of What tools do students need?What tools do designers need to help them get engaged in this topic and care about it? That was a key starting point for me.

Q: Could you talk about the prototyping process in the context of a sustainable design project? What does sustainable prototyping look like?

A: I think that it’s never too early to prototype and test out your ideas, to test your assumptions. Sometimes at the Exploratorium I would just take a table out, put a microscope on it with a video monitor, go outside and get some pond water, and put it on the microscope and invite people to look at it. I would ask, What do you notice? What’s going on? This was really primitive prototyping to get ideas for the experience.

Keeping people on the same page is also important. I’ve been at organizations where designers say, we’re not going to show it to them yet, because they’re afraid that it’s going to get shut down early. You have to have check-ins along the way, and this is a challenging balance. You want to have some creative freedom, you don’t want to be shut down early, but you do want to make sure that you’re checking in along the way. That’s what prototyping allows you to do: create new directions and be really collaborative. 

I think that the prototyping impacts are small compared to large production runs, so I don’t worry too much about it. It’s a good investment, basically. It is important to look at the issues of toxicity, because there are some materials, especially model-making materials, that do have health impacts for the people involved. If you’re ordering the model, you are still responsible for those health impacts, because somebody else could be exposed. 

Finding partners who have best practices in the industry, have protection for workers, reduce the amount of exposure…all of those things are really important questions to ask. There are different types of prototypes— looks-like, feels-like, works-like—and you may not need something that’s really beautiful if you’re just creating a works-like prototype. Communicating that to producers might help to see what the alternatives are.

Really simple materials like paper tape and glue are some of my best prototyping tools. There are also opportunities for you to recycle and reuse some of the materials you have. I like to use cardboard, it seems like there’s an endless supply of cardboard from boxes. These kinds of materials can get you to where you want.

Q: What inspired you to become a design educator?

A: I’m the middle child. I have an older sister and a younger brother, so I got to learn from them but also to teach both of them at the same time, and I really enjoyed that. My brother is five years younger than I am, so he was a little kid, and I enjoyed that process of seeing him learn new things

When I was in high school, I had a job at a grocery store as a bag boy, and this was in Miami so it was super hot. I’d have to go out and collect the shopping carts, and I had to wear a tie and mop the floor. And I was making, I don’t know, three dollars an hour. And one of my teachers asked me if I wanted to be a math tutor. I got paid twice as much, I was in the air conditioning, and I got to work with my peers, helping them with math. This was a really exciting experience for me. 

When I was in college, I tutored for Upward Bound. I was really inspired by the students because no one in their family had gone to college, and they just needed a little bit of help. They were eager to learn, and to see somebody with that passion for learning was so exciting for me. 

At the Exploratorium I had an opportunity to teach people as well. We had three different types of interns;  post-college interns, college-age interns, and high school interns. They would all be responsible for teaching each other, and I helped teach all of them. This idea of creating mentorship among the groups was really inspiring to see.

Q: How does your work as an educator inform your consulting work and vice versa?

A: I mentioned already that my experience at SERVV opened my eyes to the social dimension of sustainability. I realized in teaching my class that I was focused a lot on environmental issues but I hadn’t really thought about the social dimension, or intersection of the two. What is environmental justice? What happens when these two forces collide? 

My experiences with commercial clients has also taught me so much. I go to visit factories, to work on a team to understand the business side of the retail world – that’s a whole different language. So much to learn there. I used to go to the store and talk to all the salespeople and ask them, What’s selling? What do people like? Why don’t they like it? Getting the vibe from them. When I first started asking them, they were reluctant because they knew that I had designed it and they didn’t want to insult me. But then, over time, after we had a friendship, they would be really honest.

I bring in samples to my classrooms and say, This is what happened, these are the things that could go wrong in production. So here’s different stages of prototyping, and here’s what ended up in the store. I’ve been connected through my work to so many different design professionals, and I invite them into the classroom as well.

Q: How has the conversation around sustainability in design changed over the course of your career?

A: I think for sure there’s been a lot more discussion about sustainability. It was not really talked about so much 30 years ago. More discussion has created more awareness, and there are companies trying to do new things. There’s also some greenwashing that happens, too, because companies don’t want to be shamed for doing bad things. I guess that’s my concern; while it’s being talked about a lot more, you have to be even more vigilant about the trustworthiness of the message.

We also have to look at the bigger picture of consumption patterns. While individual products might be made with safer, better materials, a bigger picture is: what is our culture of consumption? What will happen if we don’t dramatically change this culture? Other countries are modeling their behavior on us in the U.S. and the Western world, and this is troubling to me, too.

Q: What do you see in the future of sustainable design?

A: I hope that it’s a point of inspiration for designers in the future. Up to this point, it’s been this sort of burden, Oh and it has to be sustainable. As if it’s going to squelch your creativity in some way. I think that if designers have a new point of view that sustainable design will give you new ideas and new points of inspiration, then that will be a different kind of attitude shift. That’s what I try to develop in my class as an understanding; that all these products have issues for sure, but we have an opportunity as creative designers and thinkers to come up with new approaches, and that should produce new aesthetics, new opportunities. 

I also hope that sustainability is integrated earlier in the design process. People think way too late about these issues, and it’s hard. Things get locked in really early. If it can get more integrated into design briefs earlier on in the process, we’ll have much better outcomes. 

I hope that designers can integrate more qualitative or quantitative approaches that can help them in their decision making, like the LCA. You can model something and see how well it achieves its goal. Is this new transportation route better? Well, you can mathematically find that out. It’s not unknowable. 

Designers can’t work alone, and corporations can’t work alone. It has to be governments, nonprofit corporations, consumers…everyone has to be involved in this in some way. And I think this is one of the things that’s concerning: some of the messaging is that, Oh, it’s the consumer’s fault because they’re not recycling properly, or whatever it is. Pushing it on people. Why did you buy this fast fashion? Well, I know why: it’s cheap and it’s available. So the practice of blaming people for all of these problems is something that I hope will change as well.

I see some really great opportunities in terms of understanding what environmental and social impacts are by having enough data, using AI and machine-learning, and having somebody in a sense smarter than us analyze the data to find the patterns and trends. These technologies can provide real benefits, they already have in terms of things related to climate change and biodiversity laws. 

Everything goes back to that word, value. What do we value? And how do we use all of these tools to support our values? 

I like to think about our connection to our history and to cultural heritage. I see young designers being interested in this idea of craft, of connection to their own personal past.  What’s special about their local community, or what’s special about their personal history, can be a component of the design process, something that they value. Diverse voices and perspectives being heard in the design process is an aspect of sustainable design as well. It’s an opportunity to have lots of different ideas and perspectives come together to create these solutions.

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Soft Goods Prototyping

Soft Goods Prototyping

Soft goods design is its own special area of the design industry, and soft goods prototyping is similarly unique. At Interwoven Design we specialize in soft goods, so we make a lot of these prototypes. The process we use is particular to our studio, and to demonstrate why we like this method we’ll explain what is special about soft goods prototypes and walk you through the steps. This prototyping method can become a powerful tool even for designers who lack textile and sewing experience.

What is a soft goods prototype? 

Prototyping is an iterative process and starts with a combination of 2D sketches and 3D mockups. these first “prototypes” are to quickly asses a design idea and are used to study volume, form, access points and closures. Once the form is starting to become refined we then progress onto a higher fidelity mock-up. this article explains how we go from a paper mock-up to a fully resolved prototype that serves as a model for manufacturing. We call this final model a “high fidelity prototype”. It looks like a new product that is ready to take home and use.

The ability to create a high fidelity prototype from a pattern is the goal of soft goods prototyping.

The goal of the soft goods prototyping process is to develop a pattern that will result in a consistent, high fidelity end-result as well as to create that result to demonstrate the viability of the pattern. A key stage in this process is making a Muslin.

What is a Muslin?

We will use “Muslin” with a capital M to indicate the soft goods industrial design mock up in a basic textile as compared to the basic cotton “muslin” fabric that most often used in this process. A Muslin is a model of the design that has been sewn up in low resolution fabrics, not using final textiles, colors, or hardware. It is a specific stage of the soft goods prototyping process that helps us to test the accuracy and quality of our pattern before using final materials. A Muslin is a tool on the journey to developing a compelling prototype that allows us to work out any issues with the design before moving to final materials. It may or may not be literally sewn in muslin fabric, though it often is.

A Muslin (with a capital M) is a critical tool for testing the accuracy and suitability of a soft goods pattern.

The Brown Paper Pattern-making Method

But how do we move from a drwing and fast mock up to a pattern from which we can cut a Muslin? We use a process called the Brown Paper Patternmaking Method to create our soft goods patterns, a method developed by Interwoven Design’s principal designer Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman. In this method the designer sculpts a full scale model of the desired soft good in brown craft paper, marks it up, cuts it apart, and creates a pattern with it that is then sewn up and tested for accuracy and performance.

The Brown Paper Pattern-making Method allows a designer to go from a paper model to a high fidelity prototype with accuracy.

We’ll walk through the steps and show some examples to demonstrate the key concepts, but here is the overview of the process:

  1. Create a refined design drawing
  2. Sculpt a full scale craft paper model from the drawing
  3. Add seam lines, grain lines and cross marks
  4. Cut the model apart to create pattern pieces
  5. Transfer the craft paper pieces to pattern paper
  6. True the patterns and add seam allowance
  7. Transfer the pattern paper pieces to muslin 
  8. Sew up a Muslin and make any necessary adjustments to the pattern
  9. Sew up a final high fidelity prototype

The Steps

1. Ideate to create a refined design drawing. This process should involve 2D and 3D sketches to develop your design concept. Think about hardware, colors, and final materials as you create this drawing. Your design drawing should be a detailed and refined schematic that serves as a blueprint for the model making that will follow.  While some refinement will be possible in future stages, the drawing should be as close to a final design as possible.

A refined design drawing considers the final form, materials, colors, and features of the design.

2. From the design drawing, sculpt a full scale model in brown craft paper with masking tape or painter’s tape. Craft paper behaves a lot like a textile while holding its shape well, which is why we use it for this method. Creating the initial model is the most difficult step of the entire process. If you can get this step right, the rest of the process will flow naturally. Any adjustments that need to be made to the original concept will be made here. Anything represented in your sculpted model will be transferred to the final model, so make sure it is what you want.

Here are a few tips:

  • Starting from the “base” – sculpt the form of the model so that it looks as close as possible to the finished design – it should be the same scale and shape a your concept
  • Only use tape you can draw on. Use as much as you need.
  • Draw on your model as needed to show every detail: curves, closures, straps, pockets, handles, etc.
  • Refine your sculpture until it is airtight and exactly the form you want.
  • Edges should meet neatly with minimal to no overlap.
The full scale model in brown paper should be neatly and precisely constructed.

3. Once you are satisfied that the object fits and functions as desired, draw seam lines with a fine tip Sharpie.  Be sure to consider how 3 dimensional shapes will be created by joining flat pieces of fabric and draw a seam where the flat pieces join.  Think of how a basketball, baseball or tennis ball are made from flat pieces to create spheres. A noter good tips is to look at your own soft goods possessions to see how they are constructed.

Seam lines determine the practical construction of the form.

4. Mark grain lines (north-south lines that denote the grain of the fabric from which the bag will be made) on each of the brown paper model pieces. Add cross marks and labels to each of the pattern pieces. Cross marks will act as guides to rejoin the pattern pieces once you separate them.

Think of a pattern as a puzzle in 3 dimensions, create a guide for yourself so you can put the puzzle together again.  Cross marks are markings perpendicular to the seam lines that show where the components created by the seams connect. Give each of your pattern pieces good, descriptive label and be sure not to duplicate label names.  You can use photos to capture the construction and make a map of how the pieces fit together.

6. Cut the brown paper model apart. Be careful to cut the seam lines as straight and as neatly as possible. Use scissors or an Exacto knife to cut with precision and using a metal ruler where applicable to also help create clean lines.

IMPORTANT TIP: If your bag is symmetrical only cut the right half of the bag and leave the left half intact. You will be able to “reflect” your pattern to make a perfectly symmetrical pattern from only ½ of your model.

Adding grain lines, cross marks, and component labels ensures that you will be able to recreate the form once it is cut apart.

7. Transfer the brown paper model pieces onto pattern paper.  Double check that all of your seam lines are the same length by “walking” your seams on top of each other. This is “trueing” the pattern and ensures that the pattern will fit together with smooth seams when it is sewn up. Seams that are not the same length will not sew together correctly. There will be too much fabric on one side, and the final model will be messy. This can be avoided though careful review at the pattern stage. Be sure to transfer labels and cross-marks to the pattern paper. Once the pattern is reviewed for accuracy, add a seam allowance of ½”.

Cut with clean, careful lines to get the most accurate pattern possible from your model.

8. Transfer your pattern pieces to muslin (or your chosen mock-up fabric) and cut. In the studio, we use wax transfer paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern accurately to the muslin. but you can also cut out the pattern pieces and trace them onto you fabric.

Accuracy and care is needed at every stage of this process to make sure the final result reflects the original model.

9. Sew up a Muslin and assess thoroughly. The Muslin is a test of your pattern, it allows you to resolve any issues before creating the final prototype. On the Muslin, you can add zippers, trims and plastic hardware so you can test how things work and feel. Make any adjustments needed and transfer them back to the pattern.

Once an initial Muslin is sewn and assessed, a second or third might be created to further refine the design. These changes are updated in the pattern.

10. Finally your pattern is ready for final fabric. Transfer the pattern to the back side of the final fabric, cut it out and sew up a high fidelity prototype in final materials. This final model proves the quality and viability of your pattern and it should look like it could be purchased and used immediately.

Once the Muslin demonstrates the viability of the pattern, a high fidelity prototype can be created.

Try it!

While it takes time and attention to use the Brown Paper Pattern-making Method, it is a wonderful way for those unfamiliar with pattern-making to create original patterns that can provide consistently professional results. Do you have a soft goods design idea you’ve wanted to bring to life? Try this prototyping method!